Oil is used for
sautéing, essentially to prevent food from sticking to
the bottom of the pan;
for frying; and for dressing salads and flavoring
sauces. Unlike butter,
which is an emulsion, oil is sometimes emulsified
into a mayonnaise or
vinaigrette to bring out its flavor.
Its high smoking
temperature makes it a better medium than butter or animal
fats for frying or
sautéing. There are many different kinds of oil, each
with its own characteristics and uses.
Extra virgin olive oil:
It is
conceivable for someone to live having only one oil—extra virgin
olive
oil. This oil results from the first pressing of olives and is best
used as a
dressing. It’s a waste to use this sometimes very expensive
oil for
frying or sautéing—the high heat destroys its flavor—and there
are
times, such as when making mayonnaise, when such an assertive
flavor
isn’t appropriate. In an ideal world, we’d have an assortment of
extra
virgin olive oils from all over the world to use on our salads or
on
seafood, but most of us can be happy with one.
Inexpensive extra virgin olive oil is often
comparable to more expensive brands, so unless you’re sure of what you’re
buying, you don’t necessarily get more
quality
for more money. Don’t combine extra virgin olive oil with
mustard;
they don’t agree. If you like mustard in your vinaigrette, use
“pure” olive oil or vegetable oil.
“Pure” olive oil :
In addition to extra
virgin olive oil, “pure” olive oil is useful to have
on hand. Pure olive oil is
the lowest marketable grade of olive oil which, in processing, has been
stripped of most of its flavor components, leaving it with a very neutral
taste. This is exactly the point.
There are times when we
don’t want our oil to have any taste.
Use pure olive oil for frying and sautéing
because it leaves none of the
unpleasant fishy taste
found in so many vegetable oils. It is also much
less expensive than extra
virgin oil, whose flavor is destroyed by the
heat. Many chefs use it as an all-round
oil instead of vegetable oil.
Vegetable oil:
Unlike olive or nut
oils, which are designed to contribute flavor to
a dish, vegetable oils
such as canola oil are suited for sautéing and
frying and in salads
when you don’t want the flavor of the oil to be
noticeable.
Most vegetable oils are relatively benign, but
occasionally
they take on an odd
fishy taste; you may need to experiment with
different oils—canola,
safflower, peanut—and different brands.
Nut oil :
Nut oils have become
very popular, but take care with them. Raw nut
oils—except for peanut
oils—are almost always rancid before you even
get them home, and if
they’re not, they will be soon.
The best-known maker of
roasted nut oils is Le Blanc. Le Blanc’s oils are not cheap in terms of price
per volume, but you can use a tenth as much as you’d
need of an oil made with raw nuts. Store nut oils in
the freezer.
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